Sign Up for Email to Stay Connected	Then we have got the answers for you. From cleanly cutting foam-boards, to running a combination vacuum press safely and expertly, our tech help service stands ready with the solutions you need. Move your cursor over the appropriate heading, and you’ll be one click from the answers you need.   Cutting: Die Cutting Foam Boards Unlike the competition, we offer 3 different foam centers   a.) Bienfang® Foam Boards: a "resilient" foam   b.) PilloCore®: a "crushable" foam   c.) 1/4" MightyCore®: a "rigid" foam   It is necessary to use 2-3 point center bevels in the die and the following ejection rubbers depending upon the product you have chosen:   a.) Bienfang Foam Board: Soft-Density Rubber to maintain an open edge after cutting!   b.) PilloCore: Hard-Density Rubber to achieve a tightly closed edge after cutting and 3-dimensional effects such as debossing!   c.) 1/4" MightyCore: Medium-Density Rubber to maintain an open edge after cutting!   Guillotine Cutting Bienfang Foam Board In general, guillotine cutting is not recommended for cutting Foam Board products. However, satisfactory results may be obtained by placing a sheet of cardboard above 3 or 4 sheets of Foam Board. The cardboard receives the initial impact of the guillotine blade pressure and helps to minimize the crushing, tearing and surface damage to the paper liners.   Hand Cutting Bienfang Foam Board As suggested in our Technical Bulletin, when hand cutting keep the blade at a 30 degree angle to the board so that more of the blade's cutting edge hits the board! Straight lines, circles and curves are easily cut using the X-ACTO® #1 Knife and #11 Blade. (Utility knives, mat cutters, rotary cutters, and single edge razor blades work as well). Begin cutting with a constant, even pressure along a metal rule guide. Do not force the blade or use a sawing motion! A second pass along the same cut may be required especially for thick or rigid boards like our 1/2" or MightyCore® products. Finally, your cutting surface is as important as the blade or technique. A self-healing mat like our X-ACTO mat is an excellent, non-destructive surface for the tip of the blade to pass. This will prolong the life of the blade!   Causes for Bad Cuts and/or Bunched Foam:   1. A dulled, burred or broken tip blade   2. A blade not extended far enough or too much   3. A bad cutting surface that will dull the blade (ex: glass, wood, metal)   At the first signs of tearing to the surface paper or "bunching" or pulling of the foam away from the surface paper...CHANGE THE BLADE! If the board has been cutting properly with a nice, smooth edge, then it is safe to assume that the blade is defective and not the foam board.   Machine Cutting Bienfang Foam Board For more intricate patterns and ½" products, we recommend the Piranha Black & Decker® Carbide tooth blade which can be used with a table saw, radial arm saw, or circular saw. A band saw can also be used if you use a scrap board under the bottom edge to prevent rough edges. You may also sand the edges with a fine tooth paper.   Routing Bienfang Foam Board Routing is generally not recommended for our foam board products. However, customers may wish to cut cost from buying pvc boards such as Gator®, yet continue using their existing machinery.     Routing: Routing is generally not recommended for foam board products. However, testing has shown that a "compression spiral" router bit or "up-shear, down-shear" router bit performs well. The retail price for this special bit is approximately $50 sold by C.R. Onsrud, Inc.: (800 638-8185).     Foam Board: How do I remove "Dust" from foam board prior to Screen Printing A "Tack-Cloth", which is available from Ink distributors or in most hardware stores, can be used to wipe down the boards prior to screen printing. This works better than blowing them off with air, which simply keeps the dust flying around the room and thus settling back in the work area.     Mounting Options: Dry Mounting Many Custom Framers use heat-activated adhesive tissues and films to bond images to Bienfang® Foam Boards with mechanical or vacuum presses. The key to successful dry mounting is in selecting the correct adhesive. Be sure to select the recommended adhesive for the artwork you wish to mount. Refer to the Technical Guides packaged with your Bienfang® Adhesives and note the recommendations for artwork on the back. Some adhesives bond in the press with heat, and others bond outside the press when cooling. For this reason, remove the project from the press and cool under a Bienfang® Weight or plate glass for 30-60 seconds; this improves bond and allows the board to cool in a flat condition that also minimizes potential for bowing.   There are 4 basic principles to creating flawless dry mounting projects:   1. Time 2. Temperature 3. Pressure 4. Moisture Reduction   Dry Mounting using a Mechanical Press:   Bienfang Mechanical Presses control only 2 of these dry mounting factors, Temperature and Pressure. The temperature control is located on the lid of the mechanical press, along with a thermometer and power switch. The adhesive being used and the size of the project determine the temperature setting. Correct pressure is determined by placing the assembled materials inside the press and closing, but not locking the press. The lever arm should be at a 45-degree angle to the table's surface. The 2 pressure adjusting screws located on the lid may be turned clockwise to lower the lever arm, or counter-clockwise to raise the lever arm. Prior to mounting, the operator must pre-dry the image and foam board individually between Kraft paper for 15-30 seconds to reduce moisture. Dwell time of the mounting package inside the press is determined by the adhesive selected and the size of the project. With a mechanical press, the operator controls dwell time, and a timer with an alarm is recommended. Afterwards, cool under a Bienfang Weight or plate glass for 30-60 seconds. This improves bond and allows the board to cool in a flat condition that also minimizes potential for bowing.   Dry Mounting using a Vacuum Press:   Bienfang Vacuum Presses control all 4 elements of dry mounting in one step by having a digital panel located near the lid that controls Time, Temperature, and Pressure of the vacuum. Moisture is automatically reduced during the first 30-45 seconds while the vacuum is creating pressure around the mounting materials. That is why the dwell time for an adhesive in a vacuum press is longer than the recommended time for the same adhesive in a mechanical press. Afterwards, cool under a Bienfang Weight or plate glass for 30-60 seconds. This improves bond and allows the board to cool in a flat condition that also minimizes potential for bowing.   NOTE: We do not recommend dry mounting for original pieces of art, signed or numbered prints, anything of value, or Ilfochrome (cibachrome) photographs. Dry mounting is not intended for Archival, Conservation or Preservation practices.   Mounting options using wet glues, spray glues and equipment Mounting can be accomplished with wet glues, spray adhesives, or equipment that use adhesive tissues and films with various activating temperatures. Custom framers often use "hinging" methods to attach valuable, original, signed, or numbered prints to Bienfang® Foam Boards so that removal is possible and the image is not altered or damaged from its original state. Bienfang Foam Boards also include two product lines with an adhesive that has been pre-coated on one side of the resilient foam. Bienfang® Self-Adhesive is a pressure-sensitive, self-adhesive foam board that is a neat alternative to messy sprays and wet glues without the need of expensive equipment. Bienfang® SingleStep® is pre-coated with a heat-activated adhesive used in mechanical or vacuum presses. For all oversized mounting projects, or when using a wet glue, a counter mount of comparable size and strength on the backside will minimize bowing.   Wet Glues   Wet glues are often used for mounting images to Bienfang Foam Boards. The glue you select should have a low water content and high solids to avoid bowing of the board due to moisture. PVA glues are highly recommended. Wet glues can be applied to the boards with a spray gun, brush or roller system. Manual and automated equipment is available for coating the boards and applying the image for you. Pot Devin Machine Company and Automatan offer a wide selection of coaters and are often used in the packaging industry. In the Framing industry, cold mechanical and vacuum presses may be used to provide even pressure. For oversized projects, consider using a counter mount of comparable size and strength on the backside to minimize bow.   Spray Adhesives   Spray adhesives work well for mounting images to Bienfang Foam Boards. Success is greatly determined by following the instructions on the can. For oversized projects, consider using a counter mount of comparable size and strength on the backside to minimize bowing. Point the arrow on the nozzle toward the black dot on the rim of the can and shake. Hold the can 6-8 inches from the board and begin spraying: edges first, then left to right, then up and down to create a grid pattern of adhesive. Be conservative and do not saturate. Allow 3 minutes (not more than 10 minutes) for the solvent to evaporate away from the glue. The board is ready for mounting when you can lightly touch the glue without any transferring to your finger. This will prevent bubbles from occurring under your print, often due to moisture. Roll the image down onto the coated board, smoothing in place beginning from the center out to the edges. A roller, squeegee, weight, or vacuum press can be used to apply even pressure to establish the bond and keep the board flat. If a bubble is trapped between the image and the board, use a straight pin from the backside of the board to give the air a way out. Then smooth down the image in that area. WARNING: Bienfang® Foam Boards are flammable and may constitute a fire hazard if improperly handled. Do not expose to any open flame or other ignition source. Elmer's makes no warranty of any kind, expressed or implied, as to merchantability, fitness for particular purpose, or in any other manner with respect to Bienfang Foam Board.   Preventing air bubbles Air has been trapped in the mounting, often due to damp materials (poster or substrate) and results in wrinkles and bubbles.   WET MOUNTING:   If wet mounting, both the substrate and poster need to be dampened with the wet glue so that the paper fibers for both expand with the moisture absorption. If only the substrate (or only the poster) receives the wet glue, bowing can occur while drying because one surface is expanding and contracting while the other is maintained. This creates conflict between the two surfaces.   SPRAY MOUNTING:   With spray mounting, any moisture in the substrate prevents the glue from absorbing consistently into the paper fibers to effectively hold the poster. Because nonporous surfaces, such as resin-coated photos, resist absorption, for a quality bond, you must use a spray specifically designated for nonporous photos. Spray glues need to be applied in two directions, allowed the suggested open time for the solvent to evaporate, then weighted during drying.   DRY MOUNTING:   Like the above sprays, dry mounting air bubbles are largely due to the moisture content of the substrate and/or poster. Any moisture present can become condensed liquid or steam at 215oF, which expands to create the bubble.   Mechanical Press - Pre-dry all projects prior to using a mechanical press.   Vacuum Press - Bubbles can be the result of the outer edges of the dry mounting tissue being permanently bonded to the outer edges of the substrate prior to the pulling of the vacuum. If this happens, no amount of pressure or hole punching to the back of the substrate or print will allow the edges to shift out and flatten down.   Your best chance to avoid bubbles regardless of the glue method is to pay attention to the moisture content of the materials and always use the appropriate pressure while drying.   Removing art work from substrates It is never a good idea to permanently mount original artwork or numbered prints. In this case, it would be much better to hinge the art using conservation/archival products such as Bienfang® 100% Cotton Rag or Bienfang Acid-Free Foam Board, Japanese Rice Paper, linen gummed tape, or starch paste.   The process to remove art after it has been dry mounted to a substrate may leave a layer of adhesive on the art as well as the substrate. Most permanent adhesives are considered inert, or pH neutral, and even a small amount soaked into the paper fibers of the artwork or fabric will alter the piece from its original state.   Heat-Activated Adhesives   Heat-Activated adhesives are reactivated by putting them back into the heated press 10 degrees hotter and 5 minutes longer than the original settings to re-liquify the adhesive. Because adhesives travel towards the heat source, reheat the project face down in the press. Remove the project from the press and separate the artwork from the adhesive leaving the adhesive tissue still mounted to the substrate. If this is a large piece, and the project cools before you completely remove the artwork, place a piece of release paper silicone side to the removed artwork, and reheat the project again to remove the remaining section. Once you have the artwork removed, adhesive residue may remain on the back of the piece. Liquid solvents may be used only if the artwork has been tested for color permanence, or you may continue placing the art face down in the press with a clean substrate until most of the adhesive has traveled away from the artwork and into the substrate.   *** If archival tissues were used in the press and become too hot for an extended dwell time, the adhesive may excessively absorb into the artwork and the substrate making it extremely difficult to remove.   Pure Film Adhesives   The directions above will also work for pure film adhesives with no tissue core. However, adhesives that bond upon cooling set very quickly. Therefore, once removed from the press, begin separating immediately!   Permanent Adhesives   Coated papers and RC photos resist absorbing all adhesives, so removal tends to be easier than porous, rag paper stocks. Solvents are required to remove permanent adhesives and are very toxic and may not be regarded as acid-free. Solvents you may use to remove a permanent adhesive are UnStik, Bestine thinner, or Toluene. Saturate a cotton swab with the solvent and touch various colors on the artwork/print for color permanence. If the colors do not bleed, you may submerge the piece in the solvent for approximately 5 minutes to dissolve the adhesive. If the colors do bleed, do NOT use the solvent on the artwork! Try placing the project back in the press face down, 10 degrees hotter and 5 minutes longer than the original settings to draw the adhesive into to substrate and away from the artwork. This is not a guarantee!!!     Mounting & Laminating: Dry Mounting with Bienfang SingleStep & Step 150 SingleStep & Step 150's heat-activated glue is a permanent bond adhesive. Therefore, if it bows out of the press, and the board is not cooled under glass or a weight, the "bow" is irreversible. (One more reason to never dry mount original artwork or anything of value!)   "Heat Activated" can mean one of two things. The adhesive bond is achieved as it reaches the recommended temperature in the press, or as it cools under a weight out of the press. SingleStep's heat-activated glue becomes "tacky" at 180°F and should dwell in a mechanical press for 2 minutes, and a vacuum press for 3 minutes. If necessary, increase the dwell time before increasing the temperature. Do not exceed 200°F, as this may damage the polystyrene core (low spots, growth). Step150’s heat-activated glue becomes “tacky” at 150°F and should dwell in a mechanical press for 30 seconds – 3 minutes. If necessary, increase the dwell time before increasing the temperature. Do not exceed 200°F as this may damage the polystyrene core (low spots, growth).   Remove the work from the press and place under weight or glass while it cools. This will greatly improve the bond quality and will prevent bowing because it is permanently setting in a flat position. The weight or glass should cover the mounted board fully or denting will occur. FYI ... the glass or weight should be cleaned often of dust or debris that can also cause dents or imperfections in the mounted image!   FOR BEST RESULTS IN DRY MOUNTING: Use the correct TEMPERATURE Pre-dry materials to prevent bubbles due to MOISTURE Use recommended TIME Use WEIGHT   Mounting Diplomas and Certificates Many certificates and diplomas today are offset printed with the bulk of the information, then the names and dates are printed from a computer and printer (laser or inkjet). The inks in these printers are applied with heat. Therefore, when mounting in a heated press, these inks are reactivated and can transfer to the release paper or board. Because release papers and boards are silicone coated, the ink is not absorbed and will be transferred to your next project, thus ruining it too. If dry mounting is chosen over all other options, dispose of the release paper after each diploma or certificate!   The best rule of thumb is to treat all heat-sensitive certificates and diplomas as originals. Therefore, it is not recommended to aggressively or permanently mount certificates or diplomas at all; the best methods are hinging, corners, edge strips, etc. In addition, Bienfang® Acid-Free and 100% Cotton Rag are the best choices for backing.   Because these methods allow puckering or buckling, many customers will demand them to be mounted smooth and flat! If dry mounting is chosen, dispose of the release paper after each diploma or certificate, or use a pressure-sensitive film (Bienfang® Self-Adhesive Foam Board), wet glue, or spray adhesive as alternate methods.   Mounting Resin-Coated Photos Resin-coated photos are layers of resin coating on either side of a paper with the developing emulsion on top. RC photos may be mounted with a wet glue, spray, pressure-sensitive, or dry mounting tissue adhesive. However, because the resin coating is nonabsorbent, the bond tends to be weaker and less permanent except when dry mounting.   There are two options when mounting a resin-coated photo: Option 1 Clean the back of RC photos, prior to mounting, with an alcohol or adhesive solvent to remove developer residue or fingerprints that could prevent a good bond.   Dry Mount at 185°F:   1-3 min. Mechanical Press   3-5 min. Vacuum Press   Remove and cool under weight!   Commercial-grade release boards are manufactured with an "orange peel" texture and appearance. By holding the release board up towards light, you will see the orange peel surface that will "mold" the surface of the resin-coated photo in the heated press.   There are a few options to replace the release board/orange peel: Bienfang® ColorMount® cover sheets: laminated paper with no silicone release to react with the photo emulsions. Polyester foil overlay: an acrylic sheet with no silicone release. Double-sided release paper. Make your own release board with one-sided paper and a permanent adhesive on a smoother baseboard. Option 2 Using a wet adhesive, apply the glue to the back of the photo, not the substrate, and place in a cold press for approximately 10-12 minutes.     Vacuum Press: Adjust the hinges on a Bienfang Vacuum Press Requirements:   At least Two People, Allen Wrench, Needle Nose Pliers, Rubber Mallet (optional).   Make sure there is nothing in the press and that your vent cloth is lying properly covering both manifolds. Heat press to 180 degrees.   Open the lid, you will see two gas springs, one on each side, which support the lid. On the bottom portion of the gas spring, you will see a spring (safety clip). Using needle nose pliers, remove the clip by pulling out of the drilled hole. While your assistant holds the lid open, you will remove the gas springs. To remove, first pop the bottom portion away from the ball stud, (bumping in towards machine) with the palm of your hand or rubber mallet. Then remove the top by tilting and or slightly tapping out. (It is very important that these gas springs are removed. Not doing so could cause injury or damage to machine).   Close the lid and locate the hinges at rear of machine. You will loosen the screws (do not remove) in the bottom slotted holes only. Turn the manual vacuum on and allow approximately 30 to 45 seconds to pull vacuum. The machine sometimes will pull the lid back into alignment on its own. If this does not happen, walk around the machine applying slight downward pressure. Once pressure is achieved, return to rear of press and retighten all hinge screws.   Turn vacuum off. Once it reaches 0, slightly lift lid to burp press, and close. Turn the vacuum back on and see if pressure comes up within 30 to 45 seconds. If it does, you’re good to go. Replace gas springs, top black portion first, then plunger portion to base. If not, loosen screws, and try again. Problems continue, contact our technical service specialists at 888-240-6021 for assistance.   Front Latch Adjustment For Older Models:   The latch plunger can be adjusted by loosening the set screw and turning the plunger clockwise for more pressure or counter clockwise for less. If there is difficulty in opening or closing, you can also adjust the three ball bearings in the top portion of the latch. There is a set screw in each to allow you to either loosen or tighten the grasp onto the plunger.   Adjusting the latch on a Bienfang Vacuum Press The self-locking latch (3648H and 4468H only) is designed to hold the top closed and ensure a tight seal between the platen and the rubber diaphragm. The latch plunger can be adjusted by loosening the set screw and turning the plunger clockwise for more pressure or counterclockwise for less.   If there is difficulty in pulling a vacuum within one minute, try tightening the plunger in half-turn increments until the top seals properly. Do not over-compress the diaphragm or increased wear will result. If there is difficulty in pulling a vacuum within one minute, try tightening the plunger in half-turn increments until the top seals properly. Do not over-compress the diaphragm or increased wear will result.   How do you change or store a program on a Bienfang Vacuum Press To store the settings for a new program (6 programs are possible), press the "Program" key and any keypad number from 1 to 6. While the display is blinking set the desired time/temperature using the "Set" Keys, numeric keypad and "enter" keys as usual, then press "ENTER" a second time at the end to save the program. The programs will be remembered even after turning the press off.   To change the settings of an existing program, press "Program", the keypad number, and then the appropriate "Set" key, numeric entry and "Enter". Press "Enter" a second time to save the program change.   If a mistake is made while entering or changing a program, press the "Clear" key to cancel the entry (much like a calculator). The original program will remain unchanged.   What safeguards should you follow when using a Bienfang Vacuum Press Please read the entire manual and fully understand the proper operating procedures before using your press.   IMPORTANT SAFEGUARDS   1. Place the vacuum press on either a Bienfang® Combination Vacuum Press Floor Stand or a sturdy, flat, level surface and ensure the feet and hinges are properly adjusted. The press should not be located in the direct path of air conditioning vents or room cooling.   2. Keep the vent cloth positioned so that it covers the vacuum manifolds (located in the rear corners of the press) and does not extend across the edge of the rubber diaphragm. Failure to do so will result in temporary loss of vacuum.   3. Place all materials inside the press so that they fit into the recessed chamber in the base. If any materials extend across the edge of the rubber diaphragm, they will prevent a seal and cause either low vacuum or no vacuum at all.   4. When opening and closing the press grasp both handles and keep your body, head and hands away from the press opening.   5. Foreign objects such as knives, tools, rulers, paper clips and markers should be kept out of the press and away from the press opening at all times.   6. Do not stack boards in the press. Placing a smaller board on top of the larger may cause lines or dents in the aluminum platen.   7. Do not use an exposed blade to cut materials in the press. A slice or puncture in the rubber diaphragm will result in loss of vacuum.   8. Allow the vacuum level to drop before opening the press.   9. Turn the Power Breaker OFF and keep the press in the closed position when not in use. Disconnect the power supply before cleaning or replacing parts.   10. High-pressure gas springs make opening and closing the press easier. If they are to be removed, the top MUST be held in the fully opened position for safety and to prevent damage.   Contact your authorized Bienfang® dealer or Bienfang Technical Service in the event the press needs service for parts not covered in the Owner's Manual.   What are the basic steps for wet mounting using a Bienfang Vacuum Press Bienfang® Combination Vacuum Presses can be used to mount most artwork using wet adhesives. The following instructions refer to use with Bienfang® VacuGlue300® an acid-free, water-soluble mounting adhesive that has great bonding strength but is fully reversible. 1. Set the Timer for 2 to 5 minutes. Use 3 to 7 minutes for non-porous materials (if Program 3 has been loaded then this step is not needed). 2. Apply Bienfang VacuGlue 300 to the board evenly with a brush, paint roller or spray gun (for RC photos or other non-porous materials, coat the back of the artwork). 3. Position the artwork in place on the board while the adhesive is still wet (up to 7 minutes). 4. Cover the board with porous Kraft paper and place in the press. The Kraft paper will absorb any excess adhesive around the artwork and keep the press clean. 5. Close the press and press the "Start/Repeat Cycle" key. 6. When the timer signals, press the "Stop" key, open the top and remove the materials. 7. Peel off and discard the Kraft paper. 8. Allow the bond to cure for 15-30 minutes before handling; longer in more humid areas (or for RC photos).   Tech Guides: Pressure Adjust for Mech Release Board Thermostat Calibration Vacuum Press Tech Guide For more in-depth information regarding mounting, laminating, and texturing you may refer to:   Mounting Methods, Volume 5 of the Library of Professional Picture Framing by Vivian C. Kistler, CPF, GCF, from Columba Publishing Company www.columbapublishing.com   The Mounting and Laminating Handbook (2nd edition) by Chris A. Paschke, CPF, GCF, from Designs Ink Publishing www.designsinkart.com   Mounting, Laminating and Texturing (1990), published by Seal Products Inc.   Mounting, Laminating and Texturing (1986), published by Seal Products Inc.
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